A Timeless Hot Spring Town in Fukushima
Iizaka Onsen (飯坂温泉) is one of Japan’s oldest onsen towns, located in Fukushima Prefecture. With a history stretching back over 2,000 years, it was once part of the ancient Oshu San-yu (三湯) – the three famous hot springs of the region – together with Naruko Onsen and Akiu Onsen in nearby Miyagi.
Even today, you can feel the atmosphere of the old days. I saw many people walking in yukata (light cotton kimono), especially in the evening, carrying towels and heading to one of the local bathhouses. It made me feel like I had stepped back in time.
Relax Like a Local
Iizaka Onsen is not just for tourists. Many locals still use the public baths daily. There are nine public baths and three footbaths (足湯 / ashi-yu) scattered around town. One of the most famous is Sabako-yu (鯖湖湯), known for its wooden interior and naturally flowing hot spring water.
The hot spring water here is about 42°C – a bit hotter than usual, but it’s good for blood circulation. After soaking, your skin feels very soft. The water is slightly alkaline and clear, with no strong smell.
Stay in a Ryokan
There are many ryokan (旅館), traditional Japanese inns, in Iizaka Onsen. Some are over 100 years old, offering tatami rooms, futon bedding, and home-style meals called kaiseki ryori. One place I stayed had a small private bath with river views, which was perfect in the morning when the air was cool and misty.
If you are not staying overnight, you can still visit public bathhouses or even just enjoy a quick ashi-yu foot soak.
More Than Just Hot Springs
The town is built along the Surikamigawa and Akagawa Rivers, so you’ll find many photogenic spots, especially in autumn when the leaves change color.
Nearby, you can visit:
- Local shops – selling manju sweets, handmade crafts, and Fukushima sake
- Horikiri-teien (堀切邸) – a restored samurai residence with free footbaths and cultural exhibits
- Ioji Temple (医王寺) – founded in the 9th century, with a large wooden statue of Yakushi Nyorai
- Fruit farms – especially popular in summer and autumn for peach and apple picking
Why Visit Iizaka Onsen?
Some onsen towns feel like tourist spots, but Iizaka still feels like a place for locals. It’s quiet, nostalgic, and warm – both in temperature and spirit. If you want to experience real Japanese hot spring culture without the crowds, Iizaka Onsen is a great choice.
Tips Before You Go
- Bring a small towel for bathhouses (or buy one with the bathhouse name – a nice souvenir)
- Some baths don’t allow tattoos, but a few are more relaxed
- Bath temperature can be hot, so enter slowly and take breaks
- Try the local specialty: Enban Gyoza (円盤餃子), crispy dumplings arranged in a circle
Access from Tokyo
From Tokyo Station, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Fukushima Station (about 90 minutes). Then transfer to the Fukushima Kotsu Iizaka Line – a small local train that takes you directly to Iizaka Onsen Station in 25 minutes.
The station is right in town, and you can walk to most attractions from there. If you’re coming by car, it’s about 30 minutes from central Fukushima City.
