High on the wooded slopes of Mount Zozu in Kagawa Prefecture sits one of Japan’s most spiritually and physically rewarding shrines: Kotohira-gu (金刀比羅宮), also affectionately called Konpira-san (こんぴらさん). With 785 steps to the main shrine and over 1,300 if you climb all the way to the inner shrine, visiting Kotohira-gu is as much a journey as it is a destination.
It’s one of Shikoku’s most iconic places, known for its connection to maritime safety and for offering sweeping views over the Sanuki Plain and Seto Inland Sea.
The Famous Stone Staircase
The pilgrimage to Konpira-san begins in the charming town of Kotohira, where shops selling walking sticks, charms, and sweets line the narrow main street. From there, you’ll climb an ascending stone staircase of 785 steps through forest and shrine gates until you reach the main hall (hongu).
Each section brings something different – wooden lanterns, moss-covered walls, rest stops with cold tea, and even a stable with sacred horses. The further you go, the quieter it becomes.
Those who continue past the main shrine to the Oku-no-in (inner shrine) will climb 1,368 steps in total but be rewarded with a peaceful, less-visited atmosphere and panoramic views.
A Shrine for Mariners and Travelers
Kotohira-gu has long been worshipped as the guardian of seafarers. In Japan’s Edo period, when sea travel was dangerous but essential, sailors and merchants would pray here before heading into the Seto Inland Sea.
Even today, the shrine is filled with symbols of the sea such as model ships, ship wheels, and plaques thanking the gods for safe voyages. But it’s not just for those who sail. Locals visit for general protection, good fortune, and perseverance.
A Mix of Shinto and Buddhist Heritage
Kotohira-gu has an interesting history. It started as a Buddhist temple and later became a Shinto shrine during the Meiji period when the two religions were separated by law. Because of that, you’ll still find remnants of both influences including Buddhist architecture, pagoda-like structures, and even old temple halls nearby.
The main hall, built in 1878, is made entirely of wood and sits impressively against the mountainside, with detailed carvings and broad, open views.
Treasures and Art
Along the way up, you’ll pass the Ema Hall (絵馬堂), filled with large votive paintings offered by sailors and merchants. There’s also a museum, the Treasure House, which contains religious artifacts, swords, and historical documents.
A lesser-known highlight is the Konpira Grand Theatre (Kanamaru-za) at the foot of the mountain which is the oldest surviving kabuki theater in Japan. If you’re visiting in April, you might even catch a seasonal performance.
Local Flavor Along the Path
The climb to Kotohira-gu is famous for its shop-lined approach, and many visitors make the most of it before and after the hike. Look out for:
- Kagawa udon (Sanuki udon): Thick, chewy noodles often served cold with dipping sauce.
- Oiri (おいり): Colorful, crunchy rice puffs often used in weddings and local sweets.
- Konpira manju: Steamed buns with sweet bean paste filling, sold warm along the path.
- Wasanbon sugar candies: A high-quality local sugar often shaped into delicate flowers.
The whole experience blends nature, tradition, and local food culture.
Why Visit Kotohira-gu?
It’s not just about reaching the top. Visiting Kotohira-gu is about slowing down, appreciating the journey, and feeling a connection to Japan’s natural and spiritual world. You climb, sweat a little, breathe mountain air, and discover why this sacred hilltop has drawn pilgrims for over a thousand years.
Even if you don’t go all the way to the inner shrine, the view from the main hall is worth every step.
