A Steamy Mountain Retreat with Centuries of History
Located in the mountains of Gunma Prefecture, Kusatsu Onsen (草津温泉) has been one of Japan’s most beloved hot spring resorts for centuries. Famous for its highly acidic, mineral-rich waters, this town has long been a healing retreat for samurai, emperors, and everyday travelers. It’s said that “Yoku Kusatsu ni kike” – you must go to Kusatsu for a cure.
Kusatsu Onsen is regularly ranked among Japan’s top three onsen resorts, alongside Gero Onsen in Gifu and Arima Onsen in Hyogo. Known for its powerful healing waters and long history, Kusatsu has consistently earned national recognition for its quality and charm.
More than just a place to soak, Kusatsu is a destination full of charm, culture, and seasonal beauty. Whether you’re visiting for relaxation, history, or snowy winter walks through the steam-filled streets, Kusatsu leaves a deep impression.
What Makes Kusatsu Special?
1. The Yubatake (湯畑)
At the heart of Kusatsu Onsen is the iconic Yubatake, or “hot water field.” Here, steaming spring water gushes from the earth and flows through wooden channels to cool naturally before being distributed to the town’s baths.
It’s one of the most photogenic spots in the area, especially at night when it’s lit up. You’ll often see people in yukata (light cotton robes) strolling the streets with geta sandals, adding to the traditional atmosphere.
2. Soak in Free Public Footbaths
Kusatsu is friendly to visitors on any budget. Several free footbaths (ashiyu) are scattered throughout town, perfect for resting your feet and enjoying the views. Some inns even have footbaths built into the sidewalk outside.
Try the one near Yubatake for a classic view, or explore quieter streets to find less crowded spots.
3. Sainokawara Park and Rotenburo
Located a short walk from the town center, Sainokawara Park features walking paths, hot spring streams, and one of the town’s largest open-air baths (rotenburo). Surrounded by rocks and nature, it’s a serene spot to soak under the sky.
In autumn, the fall foliage here is stunning. In winter, the snow creates a magical contrast with the rising steam.
4. Yumomi Show – A Unique Hot Spring Ritual
The hot spring water in Kusatsu is too hot to bathe in directly. Instead of adding cold water, locals developed a traditional cooling method known as Yumomi – stirring the water with large wooden paddles while singing folk songs.
You can catch a Yumomi performance daily at Netsunoyu, just next to Yubatake. Some sessions even let you try it yourself.
Tips for First-Time Visitors
- Many accommodations offer private or shared onsen – some are gender-separated, others are mixed.
- Tattoos may not be allowed in some public baths, but many ryokan have private baths available.
- Bring a yukata and enjoy a stroll after dark. The town is safe and peaceful at night.
Getting to Kusatsu Onsen
While it feels tucked away in the mountains, Kusatsu is accessible from Tokyo with a bit of planning.
- By train and bus:
From Ueno or Tokyo Station, take the JR Limited Express to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station. From there, transfer to a local bus (about 25 minutes). - By car:
Driving is possible, but be careful of snow in winter. Free and paid parking are available.